One of surfing’s most prestigious events, which has only run on 11 of its 40 years of existence is underway this morning as huge waves break over Hawaii’s North Shore.

During the summer time, Waimea Bay is a peaceful and idyllic snorkelling spot in the North Shore of Hawaii’s main island of O’ahu. Things change during the winter time, when powerful North Pacific low pressure systems come flying off the Aleutian Islands, sending huge swell south towards the Hawaiian Islands.

Image: Loop of satellite imagery showing the powerful North Pacific low to the northwest of Hawaii on Friday morning (Saturday morning in Australia).

One of these powerful storms has been brewing gigantic seas to the northwest of Hawaii over the past three to four days, generating seas of 15-20 metres. These large waves have had a fairly reasonable travel distance of about 2000 kilometres to the Hawaiian Islands, allowing the powerful swell to become more organized.

Image: OneDTN Significant Wave Heights showing swell generated by the powerful storm exceeding 15 metres, nearly 2000km north-northwest of Hawaii.

The Eddie was called on this Sunday morning (Monday morning in Australia) with nearby buoys showing a northwest swell reaching around 4 metres with a period of about 21-22 seconds. The surf may be a little slow in between sets in the morning, but should become more consistent and a little bigger as the day goes on. The swell is forecast to peak around midday at 5.5-6 metres, with a period of 19-20 seconds. The required 20 feet surf size to run the Eddie will realistically result in colossal 15-20 metre wave faces (surf measured in feet in Hawaii is under called).

Image: Sharing at Waimea Bay is easy when the wave spans the area of a footy oval. Source: iStock / tropicalpixsingapore

Invited surfers in this year's Eddie include past Eddie winners and world champions such as: 

• Luke Shepardson (2023 winner)
• John John Florence (2016 winner and 3 times surfing world champion)
• Greg Long (2009 winner)
• Bruce Irons (2004 winner)
• Kelly Slater (2002 winner and 11 times surfing world champion) 

Australian invitees include: 

• Ross Clarke-Jones (2001 winner)
• Russell Bierke
• Felicity Palmateer
• Laura Enever 

The Eddie Big Wave Invitational is one of surfing’s most prestigious events, celebrating past and current big wave surfers. The event is in memory of Eddie Aikau, the first lifeguard on Hawaii’s North Shore, a distinct waterman who saved over 500 people during his service – most at Waimea Bay. Eddie would face huge waves that could close out the Bay, and hence why the event has only been able to run in 11 of the past 40 years, when the waves have been big enough to honour the memory of the man.